El Tunco Revisited


Hello again,

A lot of new stories have piled up, but I’ll start chronologically.

In November, we returned to El Salvador (we had already been there a year ago with Sheldon, Annick, and their daughters) and went back to our favorite spot — a small surf town called El Tunco. A charming place by the ocean, just a few streets, cozy cafés, a handful of restaurants, and a perfect spot for learning how to surf.

Once again, we booked afternoon lessons — having learned from last year’s experience that the waves are much gentler for beginners at that time. It’s an incredible feeling to surf when the sun is low, enjoying not only the warm ocean water but also the golden glow of the sunset reflected on the waves.

We spent the whole Sunday with a Polish family who has been living there for a year with their two daughters (one exactly Victor’s age), in a local village. The girls attend a neighborhood school. It was truly lovely to meet them and to learn many interesting things about everyday life in El Salvador.

I think this country has enormous potential and a lot to offer in the near future if it continues to develop at the same pace — under the efficient, though controversial, leadership of Nayib Bukele, re-elected for a new term in 2024.

Last year, we were surprised to see prisoners under strict supervision cleaning the beaches. Now, they are renovating schools across the country. Bukele’s policies provoke many mixed emotions and controversies, but it must be acknowledged that he has succeeded in fighting organized crime and gangs — making El Salvador probably the safest country in Latin America. New roads are being built, and apparently the healthcare system is of very high quality. His methods are rather radical — most “fathers” are in prison, and children are raised only by their mothers, which makes Father’s Day a rather sad occasion there. It’s interesting to wonder what kind of impact this will have on a generation raised mostly by women.

Of course, I must mention (Bartek would never forgive me if I didn’t!) that Bitcoin is a recognized currency there — accepted almost everywhere.

On the other hand, something completely incomprehensible and quite uncomfortable for us… The front car windows are covered with such poor-quality dark film that it feels as if they were smeared with oil. We honestly couldn’t understand why anyone would do this — driving at night is an absolute nightmare, eyes glued to the windshield trying to spot people walking along the road or cyclists suddenly emerging from the darkness — naturally without lights or reflective clothing.



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